![]() ![]() Because of it's flat shape it's mostly bendable in one direction (forwards & backwards), but less so perpendicular to that. It can be molded when warm and molds itself to your body when you wear the garment. It comes in long strips that can be cut to length and the ends rounded with a file. There is a plastic boning that is marketed as synthetic or "German" baleen. ![]() Since cording cannot break or poke you, it's suited for tight-lacing as well as soft corsets or corseletes, but since it lacks stiffness it cannot support certain silhouettes or free-standing bits. Find this image and detailled instructions in this blog by. You can either measure and sew first and then pull the cording through the channels or you lay the cords between the layers and sew it in with a zipper foot.Ī corded section looks ike this. Instead of sewing boning channels onto the fabric, you sew both layers of fabric together to create cording channels between them. You should not use wired string or the wire may rust and destroy your corset. 1 - 3mm hemp or sisal string from the gardening department worked well for me. You'll need 2 layers of fabric that are slightly wider than your pattern piece and a type of string or cord that is stiffer than knitting yarn but not too thick. It's bendable in every direction and makes for a very comfortable garment. This is a mostly overlooked historical method of creating shapewear that holds its shape very well but stays flexible and doesn't impede movement. If you want a slightly stiffened bustier as a form of shapewear, you can choose lighter, more flexible materials. You'll have to use very strong materials for the fabric, the sewing thread and the boning. If you want a drastic waist reduction via tight-lacing, the entire corset will be under enormous strain. ![]() ![]() The most important question you need to answer is: How much strain does the finished corset have to withstand? ![]()
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